Food and Wine (Mis) Match

In the food and wine world, there’s a lot of talk about food and wine pairings. For those less into the food and wine scene, such talk can cause serious eye-rolling.

I’m not particularly ridged about trying to match foods and wines. I listen to the experts and take their suggestions under advisement, but I don’t slavishly follow any “rules”. Indeed, to me part of the fun of wine tastings that have food components is to try different wines with the cheese or the oysters, or olives, or whatever is being served.

That said, this afternoon at a New Wines of Greece tasting I had the chance to find out first-hand how some foods can absolutely ruin your palate, causing very lovely wine to seem awful. IMG_2614

I had just tried Wine Art Estate’s 2014 Techni Malagousia, a lovely white made of 100% Malagousia. I enjoyed it and was asking Akis Papadopoulos, the winemaker, about their wines. (Unfortunately Wine Art Estate’s wines are not currently available in Ontario – they are looking for a wine agent to represent them.)

Akis had another white that he was pouring – their 2014 Techni Alipias White, which is 80% Sauvignon Blanc-20% Assyrtiko. He poured me a sample and when I asked him which of the two whites he preferred, he said he prefers the Alipias White. So, I was anxious to compare the two.

Akis Papadopoulos, winemaker at Wine Art Estate
Akis Papadopoulos, winemaker at Wine Art Estate

I hadn’t yet tried the Alipias when a server came by and offered a lovely-looking deep fried artichoke heart. As soon as I took a bite, I realized that though I love artichokes, they are not a drink friendly food. Their high iron content has a way of taking over your taste buds.

As I swallowed, I apologized to Akis, as I suspected that given what I had just eaten, I probably wouldn’t enjoy the Alipias. Unfortunately, I was right. After that little morsel of artichoke, I could not enjoy the wine at all. Embarrassed, I promised I would return when my palate had cleared a bit.

Later I went back and sheepishly asked for another sample of the Alipias. Akis was happy to oblige, and sure enough, it very nice. I had no idea that Greece grew Sauv Blanc and the blend with the Assyrtiko, a grape native to Greece, was perfect. I could imagine it on a hot summer day…

I left the wine tasting with an appreciation for the many varieties of wines made in Greece (there is way more than Restina out there) and a stark reminder that though many different wines pair with different foods, there are definitely some foods that you should avoid if you want to enjoy your wine…

Somewhereness… Something Special

A group of a dozen Ontario wineries have banded together into a group they call Somewhereness. The name is meant to invoke the idea of the special qualities attributable to terroir and the wineries in the group pride themselves on their stewardship and quality. The wineries in the group are: 13th Street Winery, Bachelder, Charles Baker, Cave Spring Cellars, Flat Rock Cellars, Hidden Bench, Hinterland, Malivoire Wine, Norman Hardie, Southbrook Vineyards, Stratus, and Tawse. The group has done a good job of promoting to restaurants and if you notice one of them on a wine list, it’s likely you’ll see other Somewhereness wines on the list too.

The group had a trade tasting in Toronto recently and, in addition to many of their best known wines, there were a few surprises.

Most Unusual

The most unusual offering was a new wine produced by Southbrook Vineyards called: 2014 Small Lots Estate Grown Orange Wine. Nope, that’s not a typo. The wine, which is to be released in May, is, in fact, a light orange colour with a distinct un-filtered haze. (It looks more like a very light beer than a wine.) It’s made of 100% Vidal and it is made with whole clusters of grapes. Rather than try to describe it, here’s a video of Paul DeCampo, Southbrook’s Director of Marketing and Sales, explaining how it was made.

Other Delightful Finds

In terms of premium-priced wines, my favourite was the 2012 Bachelder Wismer Chardonnay ($44.95).

One of the biggest surprises for me was Cave Spring Cellars’ 2012 Pinot Noir Estate ($34.95). Cave Spring Cellars is so well known for its whites, it’s easy to overlook their reds. Don’t. If you’re a fan of Pinot Noir, give this a try.

The 13th Street 2012 Pinot Gris ($19.95) was very nice – well balanced and crisp.

I love bubbly and I was wowed by Tawse’s 2103 Spark Limestone Ridge Riesling both in terms of taste and price ($19.95 and available at Vintages). It’s made using the traditional method and it’s definitely something that fans of sparkling will enjoy.

And finally, an Ontario wine tasting wouldn’t be complete without a dessert wine. The biggest discovery at the dessert wine table was 13th Street Winery’s 2013 13 Below Zero Riesling. It’s a blend of 40% Riesling icewine and 60% off-dry Riesling. At $19.95 for 375 ml. it’s a bargain!

Cuvée’s Grand Tasting: A Sensory Thrill

IMG_2482Well, once again this year, the Grand Tasting was excellent. My sister came in from the States and it was terrific to be able to buy a ticket at the door. My sister had never been to a wine gala and, though I told her the crowd would be well dressed, I think she was surprised at how many people were in black tie attire. (I have to say – the women looked spectacular – the men, well, let’s just say they weren’t as consistently formal as the women.)IMG_2487

Walking into the Grand Ballroom was like walking into a beautiful dream. The room, which is basically black, was magically lit with vibrant purple and white lights shining on different food stations with chefs in their crisp white jackets and toques. And, in every direction you look there were magnificent floral arrangements.

Throughout the room there were seven oasis-like stations with six to eight wineries at each. Each wine station featured wineries pouring only reds or only whites. That made it easy to compare, and it also made it easy to find a wine to pair with whatever you were eating.

IMG_2473The 13 food stations (as well as a Canadian cheese station) were interspersed between the wine stations. At each station a myriad of chefs were carefully plating each dish. It was wonderful watching them lovingly layering each component. It’s clear that today’s chefs take the old adage that you eat with your eyes very seriously. They also take their ingredients seriously and because they were right there, you had the unusual chance to chat with them and ask them how they prepared the dish, or why they chose each component.IMG_2471

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Hands down the biggest surprise for me and my sister was how delicious Chef Downs’ pickled tongue slider was. The tongue was cooked to perfection and the combination of the pretzel bun, the horseradish aioli and the fried egg was amazing. Chef Downs’s other entrée – rare seared tuna, chilled octopus salad, and pickled kumquat with chili-lime vinaigrette – was also a delightful surprise to me because it featured one of my favourite ingredients: sea asparagus. (You don’t see that too often around here.)IMG_2485

I also adored Chef Parsons’ wild boar sausage with braised leek, gold fingerlings, Sir Laurier cheese (one of my favourite Canadian cheeses) and black garlic gratin. My sister’s favourite entrée was Chef Tim Mackiddie’s fried veal croquette, which was served with snails sautéed in garlic and icewine. And both of us loved Chef Taylor’s pepper crusted bison tenderloin, served on a bed of parsnip puree with some king oyster mushrooms on top.

IMG_2483And of course, the desserts were the grand finale. It was hard to choose between the white chocolate-coated cakes, the Croque en Bouche, the truffles, and the torts. Fortunately, Chef Del Priore was only too happy to let you have all that you like. (My favourite was the white chocolate cake with the hazelnut filling.) Chef Vergalito’s gelato was also a hit – who ever heard of mojito flavoured gelato? Yum!

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As you might expect when each winery is pouring the winemaker’s favourite, there were many lovely wines, and some interesting stories behind the selections. Josephs Estates’ winemaker, Katherine Reid, had an especially interesting reason for choosing their Chenin Blanc 2011. She explained to us that the 2011 vintage is the last one there will ever be from those vines because they were damaged over a couple of winters and they ended up tearing them out.

Pillitteri Estates Winery was pouring their Riserva Famiglia Appassimento Cabernet Franc 2010. This is the first appassimento style Pillitteri has made and given that they only label wines from their very best vintages “Riserva Famiglia”, you know that this is a very special wine.

In terms of our favourite wines that evening, my sister loved the Rennie Estate G Assemblage 2012, an appassimento style Bordeaux blend. My favourite wine of the evening was Kacaba Vineyards’ Cabernet France Reserve 2010.IMG_2506

And, just when we thought we had had had we could eat and drink, they opened a side room for the Apres Cuvee party. The after party featured a live band and two additional wine stations serving a variety of Ontario bubbly and Icewines. And, for those who had had enough wine, this year they also had stations serving Ontario craft beer.IMG_2510

What the Winemakers Served at Cuvée

IMG_2476The idea behind the wines served at the Cuvée Grand Tasting is that each winemaker serves his or her favourite. If you weren’t able to attend the Grand Tasting last night – don’t worry – you can stop in at any of the wineries and try them – and buy them – there.IMG_2467

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s a list of what each winery was pouring last night:

  • 2027 Cellars Ltd. – Wismer Vineyard “Fox Croft Block” Chardonnay 2012
  • Big Head Wines – Chenin Blanc 2013
  • Cave Spring Cellars – Riesling CSV 2012
  • Chateau des Charmes Wines Ltd. – Merlot 2012, St. David’s Bench Vineyard
  • Colaneri Estate Winery – Insieme 2012
  • Coopers Hawk Vineyards – Cabernet Franc Reserve 2012
  • Cornerstone Estate Winery – Cabernet Franc 2012
  • Coyote’s Run Estate Winery – David Sheppard Vintage 30 Cabernet Sauvignon 2012
  • Creekside Estate Winery – Broken Pass Syrah 2011
  • Domaine Queylus – 2012 Pinot Noir Reserve 2013
  • EastDell Estates by Diamond Estates Winery – EsatDell Estates Black Label Riesling 2013
  • Flat Rock Cellars Ltd. – The Rusty Shed Chardonnay 2012
  • Foreign Affair Winery – Petit Verdot 2012
  • Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery – Chardonnay, Speck Family Reserve 2013
  • Inniskillin Wines – Riesling Reserve 2013
  • Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery – Grand Reserve Merlot 2012
  • John Howard Cellars of Distinction – Megalomaniac – Megalomaniac Grounded Reserve Merlot 2010
  • Josephs Estate Wines Inc. – Chenin Blanc 2011
  • Kacaba Vineyards Inc. – Cabernet Franc Reserve 2010
  • Konzelmann Estate Winery – Cabernet Merlot Family Reserve 2012
  • Lailey Vineyard Winery – Impromptu 2012
  • Lakeview Cellars by Diamond Estate Winery – Lakeview Cellars Sauvignon Blanc 2013
  • Le Clos Jordanne Wines – Village Reserve Pinot Noir 2012
  • Legends Estates Winery – Semillion Terroir 2013
  • Magnotta Winery Estates Ltd. – Enotrium Gran Riserva 2011
  • Malivoire Wine Company – Stouck Meritage 2011
  • The Marynissen Estates – 2013 Pinot Gris
  • Mike Weir Wine Inc. – Chardonnay 2013
  • Niagara College Teaching Winery – Balance Pinot Noir 2013
  • Nyarai Cellars – Cadence 2011
  • Pelee Island Winery – Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot Vinedresser 2012
  • Peller Estates – Peller Estates Private Reserve Gamay Noir 2013
  • Pillitteri Estates Winery Inc. – Riserva Famiglia Appassimento Cabernet Franc 2010
  • Pondview Estate Winery Ltd. – Bella Terra Pinot Gris 2013
  • Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery – Ravine Vineyard Chardonnay 2013
  • Reif Estate Winery – Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2012
  • Rennie Estate Winery – G Assemblage 2012
  • Ridge Road Estate Winery –  Riesling 2014
  • Riverview Cellars Estate Winery – Angelina’s Reserve Gewurztraminer 2013
  • Rockway Vineyards – Wild Ferment Red 2012
  • Southbrook Vineyards – Triomphe Chardonnay 2013
  • Stoney Ridge Cellars Ltd. – Riesling 2013
  • Strewn Inc. – Strewn Cabernet Sauvignon Terroir 2012
  • Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery – Fancy Farm Girl Frivolous White 2012
  • Stratus Vineyards Limited – Stratus White 2012
  • Thirteenth Street Wine Corp. – Gamay Noir Sandstone Vineyard 2012
  • The Thirty Bench Wine Makers – Thirty Bench Small Lot Pinot Noir 2012
  • Trius Winery at Hillebrand – Trius Grand Red 2012
  • Two Sisters Vineyards – Cabernet Franc 2010
  • Vieni Estates – Chardonnay Reserve 2012
  • Vineland Estates Winery Ltd. – Cabernet Franc Reserve 2012
  • Westcott Vineyards – Estate Chardonnay 2013

And remember – Cuvee continues all weekend with:

IMG_2469Cuvee en Route – a passport tasting program with over 30 wineries serving special themed tasting flights.

Cuvée en Route Dining – with the following restaurants serving special prix fix menus created especially for the weekend:

  • Benchmark Restaurant – the restaurant at the Canadian Food and Wine Institute, which is on Niagara College’s campus.
  • Peller Estates Winery Restaurant
  • Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery Restaurant
  • Trius Winery Restaurant
  • Kitchen76 – the restaurant at Two Sisters Vineyards

Wineries at the Cuvée Grand Tasting 2015

I’ve blogged a bit about some of the chefs who will be serving at the Cuvée Grand Tasting on Friday night (Feb. 27th) – but of course, the evening is also about celebrating Ontario wines and winemakers. So, I thought it only fair that I report on the 52 (!) wineries that’ll be there.

Though the list features wineries mainly from the Niagara region, the Lake Erie/Pelee Island region is represented by Coopers Hawk Vineyards and Pelee Island Winery.

Here are the wineries that will be there. Note that the Cuvée organizers have not released information about the wine winery will be pouring – but it’s supposed to be the winemakers’ favourite. (I’ll report on what they’re serving as soon as the list is released.

2015 winery partners 

  • 2027 Cellars Ltd.*
  • Big Head Wines
  • Cave Spring Cellars
  • Chateau des Charmes Wines Ltd.
  • Colaneri Estate Winery
  • Coopers Hawk Vineyards
  • Cornerstone Estate Winery
  • Coyote’s Run Estate Winery
  • Creekside Estate Winery
  • Domaine Queylus
  • EastDell Estates by Diamond Estates Winery
  • Flat Rock Cellars Ltd.
  • Foreign Affair Winery
  • Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery
  • Inniskillin Wines
  • Jackson-Triggs Niagara Estate Winery
  • John Howard Cellars of Distinction – Megalomaniac
  • Joseph’s Estate Wines Inc.*
  • Kacaba Vineyards Inc.
  • Konzelmann Estate Winery
  • Lailey Vineyard Winery
  • Lakeview Cellars by Diamond Estate Winery
  • Le Clos Jordanne Wines
  • Legends Estates Winery*
  • Magnotta Winery Estates Ltd.
  • Malivoire Wine Company
  • The Marynissen Estates*
  • Mike Weir Wine Inc.
  • Niagara College Teaching Winery
  • Nyarai Cellars
  • Pelee Island Winery
  • Peller Estates
  • Pillitteri Estates Winery Inc.
  • Pondview Estate Winery Ltd.
  • Ravine Vineyard Estate Winery*
  • Reif Estate Winery
  • Rennie Estate Winery
  • Ridge Road Estate Winery
  • Riverview Cellars Estate Winery
  • Rockway Vineyards
  • Southbrook Vineyards
  • Stoney Ridge Cellars Ltd.
  • Strewn Winery
  • Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery
  • Stratus Vineyards Limited
  • Thirteenth Street Wine Corp.
  • The Thirty Bench Wine Makers
  • Trius Winery at Hillebrand
  • Two Sisters Vineyards*
  • Vieni Estates
  • Vineland Estates Winery Ltd.*
  • Westcott Vineyards

*these are wineries that were not at the Grand Tasting last year.

Tickets are still available for the Grand Tasting ($200, with a Cuvée en Route pass thrown in for added fun the rest for the weekend). (Rumour has it that tickets will be available at the door, but to avoid the possibility of disappointment, it’s best to buy your ticket in advance on-line.)

For Chef Parsons, it’s all in the technique …

In talking with some of the chefs that will be cooking at Cuvée 2015’s Grand Tasting (Friday, Feb. 27th) I was struck by how calm they are about cooking for hundreds and hundreds of guests. What I also found interesting was the different factors they considered when designing the dishes they’ll be serving.

When cooking at Cuvée, It goes without saying that the goal is to impress (or, as Chef Del Priore put it: the Wow factor). But that’s not the only factor the chefs mentioned as being important. Using unique ingredients was key for Chef Downes. (I think it’s safe to say that his choice of pickled tongue fits the unique ingredient criterion!) Local ingredients – and the challenge of sourcing them in the dead of winter – was a consideration Chef Midgley mentioned.

MVI_2441-001For Chef Jason Parsons, Executive Chef at Peller Estates Winery, the choice of cooking technique also played an important role in deciding what he’d serve. When he learned he’d been invited to participate in Cuvée this year, he quickly decided that sous vide was the way to go. The technique, which Parsons admitted can sound like boil-in-a-bag, allows the chef to bring the food to a certain temperature and then maintain it without overcooking or changing the taste or texture. As a result, it’s a great way to ensure that every guest gets a serving that’s cooked to perfection, regardless of whether they are the first person served or the 700th person served.

Parsons and his team will be serving two dishes at Cuvée: a sous vide salmon and a wild boar sausage.

Here’s a short video of Chef Parsons talking about Cuvée – and extolling the virtues of sous vide cooking!

Cuvée Culinary Partners: Pop-up (Gourmet) Restaurants

Chef Ross Midgley, Executive Chef at Ravine Vineyard Estates Winery, has an interesting way of describing what it’s like to be one of the chefs at Cuvée’s Grand Tasting (Feb. 27th) – it’s like having a pop-up restaurant for one night.MVI_2439

A neat way of looking at it, eh?

In a recent interview Midgley, who is new to Ravine but certainly not to the Niagara culinary scene, explained that doing Cuvée is a nice change from the ala carte service he and his staff do at Ravine. One thing that isn’t different about cooking for an event as large as Cuvée is his interest in using local ingredients as much as possible. So, with that in mind, he designed the dishes he’ll be serving that evening.

At Cuvée he’ll be serving two dishes: individual Traditional Quebecois Tourtière with St. David’s sweet pepper relish and a seafood dish featuring lobster and scallop sausage with a butter sauce.

Here’s a short video of Chef Midgley talking about Cuvée.

 

Another Day of Wine and Chocolates

Despite the sub-zero temps, a fellow writer and I bundled up and headed down to Niagara-on-the-Lake for Days of Wine and Chocolate.  You know it’s going to be a good day when your first stop involves bubbly — and Peller Estates’ Ice Cuvée Classic never disappoints. The traditional method bubbly pairs very nicely with the dark, rich sea salt caramel infused Valrhona dark chocolate truffle they are serving up for the event. IMG_2440

We then popped next door to the Two Sisters Vineyards — one of the newest wineries in Niagara-on-the-Lake.  It’s only been open for a few months, but you’d never know it when you walk it. It’s definitely built with the idea of being a destination winery. They have a restaurant on site: Kitchen 76, which gets its name from the fact that the winery property is 76 acres. IMG_2450

For Days of Wine and Chocolate they are serving their 2011 Eleventh Post, a red blend, paired with a roasted mushroom crostini with gorgonzola and a drizzle of their chocolate-infused “Agrodulce sauce”. Though the crostini was just a nibble, it was a sophisticated melding of tastes that reflects well on the culinary talent in the kitchen. IMG_2446

 

 

 

 

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Our favourite pairing of the day was at Reif Estate Winery– they are serving a chocolate chicken tortilla soup that has a little heat on the finish. The soup pairs very well with their 2011 Merlot. IMG_2456

We stopped in at PondView Estate Winery because I was interested in learning about Burnt Ship Bay wines, which were just released at Vintages. I knew there was some connection between Burnt Ship Bay and Pondview, but I wasn’t sure whether Burnt Ship Bay is a virtual winery that Pondview hosts.

It turns out that the winemaker behind Burnt Ship Bay Estate Winery is Fred Di Profio, who is the winemaker at PondView and Di Profio Wines (which is owned by Fred’s parents). Unfortunately, for licensing reasons, Burnt Ship Bay wines are not available for tasting at PondView.

Anyway, once I got the info I was looking for about Burnt Ship Bay, we turned our attention back to what PondView is serving for Days of Wine and Chocolate. I have to say, when I read they are serving a chocolate coated strawberry, I was kind underwhelmed. The choice didn’t seem that creative or special.IMG_2460

IMG_2461Well, the strawberries were not just special — they were spectacular — in taste, as well as in attractiveness.  Apparently the strawberries are made by a local company called Strawberry Obsessions.  For this event PondView is serving their 2012 Cabernet Merlot Reserve paired with strawberries that are first dipped in milk chocolate and then dipped in dark chocolate, and then drizzled with caramel and dusted with sea salt. Both of us agreed that the strawberries were the culinary highlight of the day.

We decided to end the day as we had started — with some bubbly and a truffle. Trius Winery at Hillebrand had just what we were looking for. They are serving their Trius Brut Rosé paired with a dark chocolate and bacon truffle.

 

IMG_2462Days of Wine and Chocolate continues on weekends (Fridays – Sundays) this month.

 

And now, for something completely different…

Cuvée’s Grand Tasting is the opportunity to enjoy Ontario wines you may not have tried before, or that you may not have too often. Turns out, it’s also a chance to enjoy food you may not have too often – at least if you stop by Chef Justin Downes’s food station.

MVI_2437-001Chef Downes, the Executive Chef at The Restaurant at Vineland Estates, will be serving two things: pickled tongue sliders and a spin on a niçoise featuring fresh rare seared tuna with octopus salad. You read that right – pickled tongue!

In choosing what he’d serve, Downes, who has been at Vineland Estates for 14 years, wanted to offer up something out of the ordinary and tongue certainly is that! Mind you, he’s served tongue for quite some time at The Restaurant at Vineland Estates and he says it’s gone over quite well.

Given the number of people who attend Cuvée, I wondered whether serving hundreds of people presents particular challenges. Downes explained that it’s not that different from serving in the restaurant because he and his team simply plate them and serve them one-at-a time – it’s not like trying to serve 500 hot entrees all at the same time as you would a sit-down banquet.

Here’s a short video of Chef Downes talking about his plans for banging it out of the park this year at Cuvée. (He also offers a pretty scrumptious description of those sliders and the tuna and octopus dish!)

The Wow Factor

Cuvée is all about showcasing the best of Ontario wine and food, and the Grand Tasting on Friday night (Feb. 27th) is undoubtedly the highlight of the weekend. It’s a given that the wines will wow – the winemakers are pouring their favourites.

Getting the wow factor right in the food department is a bit trickier, but a welcome challenge for the 13 chefs who will be serving up their special creations at the gala. In the next few posts I’ll talk a bit about what a few chefs who will be at Cuvée have to say about the event.

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Chef Giovanni Del Priori of Criveller Cakes

“Cuvée is one of my favourite events,” says Chef Giovani Del Priore of Criveller Cakes. “It’s work, but I enjoy it. People are beautifully dressed, it’s very glamourous, the whole atmosphere is special. It’s a chance for us to showcase our work,” says Del Priore, who will be responsible for all the desserts. Del Priore, a veteran of Cuvée, is delighted to be returning. (To ensure and promote variety, the general rule is that chefs are not invited back for a few years. But, the Cuvée organizers have made an exception for Del Priore and his Criveller Cakes team — no doubt because they do such an amazing job.)Criveller Cakes IMG_2408

Chef Del Priore talked about the challenge he and his team face. “We have one of the largest stations – only the Fallsview Casino’s station is bigger. The reason ours is so big is because pretty much all the guests eat dessert, while they might not try something at all the stations – most people eat at least one dessert,” says Del Priore.

Last week a friend and I dropped in on Criveller Cakes and Chef Del Priore showed us around and talked about Cuvée. Click here to watch a short video of Chef Del Prioe talking about Cuvée. Warning: your mouth may water and you may find yourself craving chocolate.